When I lived in Tampa, Fla., in the 1980s and ’90s, Bern’s Steak House was the place everyone mentioned when talking about high-end steakhouses, and that apparently hasn’t changed since I moved away. But something else has, as the Tampa Bay Times reported. Founder Bern Laxer got into organic farming during the 1970s, and much of what he grew on his 7-acre farm wound up on the restaurant’s menu. But that’s been changing under the leadership of Laxer’s son David, who wants to turn the now-fallow farm into a soccer complex and begin farming a smaller piece of land. Meanwhile, the eatery’s marketing still emphasizes local and organic, despite the fact that these days, the lion’s share of produce is sourced through large distributors and only about 20% is organic. David Laxer told the Times that the eatery will shift its message once the new farm is established.
Though “local” and “organic” have been hot restaurant trends for at least the past two years, Bern’s isn’t the only eatery that seems to be putting locally sourced and organic ingredients lower on the priority list. World-renowned chefs Thomas Keller and Andoni Luis Aduriz gave a joint interview to The New York Times that set the food blogosphere abuzz. The chefs see their main mission as creating amazing meals and are content to let promoting local and organically grown ingredients take a back seat.
Bloggers including Grist’s Twilight Greenaway quickly took Keller to task, calling his comments irresponsible and destructive. Environmentalist Laurie David called the chef’s stance shocking and said, “Why check your citizenship at the kitchen door?” Others responding to posts and tweets on the story saw the issue as less black and white, including commenters at Chefs Collaborative who eat sustainably when possible but draw the line at giving up coffee, tea and favorite dishes simply because the ingredients can’t be locally sourced.
Enhancing local produce options
Some agriculture researchers see benefits in growing crops closer to where they’ll be consumed. One project is designed to grow more broccoli — typically a West Coast crop — on the East Coast, with the help of federal farm subsidies. Congress began including specialty crops in federal farm bills in 2008, and growers get about $3 billion in subsidies, McClatchy Newspapers reported.
Researchers at the University of California, Davis, are using federal funds to “show how fresh fruits and vegetables with enhanced flavor can be successfully handled, without compromising food safety, so as to improve consumer satisfaction,” McClatchy reported.
Maybe they mean “papples”?
The Guardian’s Word of Mouth Blog reported on the latest hybrid fruit: a pear disguised as an apple. The fruit, developed in New Zealand, is actually a hybrid of two pear varieties, with the taste and texture of a pear but a distinctly apple shape. It might seem weird, but some of the most common fruits are the result of cross-breeding experiments, including grapefruits, lemons and several varieties of grapes.
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Some local food advocates also happen to be chefs, but not all chefs are local food advocates. Keller's comments in the NYT don't necessarily point to a decline in local buying, but clarifies his own personal stance (and one he is entitled to). If an establishment such as Bern's "gives up" on local, it's likely they weren't all that committed in the first place, and viewed the exercise as a marketing opportunity rather than a way of life.
A good blog post starts a conversation and gets people thinkng critically about the ideas put in front of them. Thanks!
I don't think Thomas Keller got to where he is by limiting his creativity with specific ingredients, solely because they were in season or were growing in his nearby garden. As a chef myself, I believe that local ingredients at their peak make sense from a flavor as well as environmental standpoint, but this is not a magic bullet. It isn't always feasible in a practical way, nor does it give you the creative room your customers and you may want. I respect Keller's desire to serve what he determines are the best ingredients and I think any chef running a profitable business needs to make those same decisions. I respect his desire to push his creativity and not hold himself back with inferior ingredients. But I do think it's everyone's responsibility to care for our planet and it's resources. This subject means a lot to me personally, so I make efforts to use my buying power responsibly. I only serve sustainable fish because I feel this is something I can do to help ensure a diverse and healthy ocean for the long run. I was shocked that Thomas Keller would make such a bold statement with an apparent disregard for his and chefs' rolls in our environment. As someone who purchases and feeds others in a restaurant or foodservice operation, our influence is even farther reaching then our own personal buying decisions. Even if by restaurant standards, it's a small impact (100 meals a day) it's still a bigger impact then most people make. I think he may underestimate the negative influence that his words may have on food trends and many chefs. His impact and apathetic attitudes are very disappointing, I used to admire him as a chef, but I don't think I can anymore.